From an idea to a piece of jewellery
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The journey to an exclusive piece of jewellery is amazing. It starts with an idea
or a spark that can take a physical shape. This is partially influenced by the purpose and means of using the jewellery. If it’s a piece of evening jewellery for special occasions, designers can let their imaginations run wild. On the other hand, if it’s an engagement or wedding ring to be worn every day, it’s important to consider, among other things, the future owner’s lifestyle. That’s why I like to find out as much as possible when designing a piece of jewellery.
Jewellery should be pleasant to wear, suit the person nicely and complement with things it is intended to be worn with. At the same time, it should be possible to repair and have a long life in accordance with its intended use. This may sound a little boring, but expressing an idea is not a priority in my work. Too many rules beyond what the creative technique requires can be harmful in art. This is an artistic craft through which a work of art can be created, but above all, where something beautiful is born to serve a purpose. Even though I sometimes swing my pen, so to speak, when designing, my goal is for a piece of jewellery to underline or highlight the appearance and lifestyle of its owner.
With imagination, anything is possible, and a lot can also be put onto paper. But creating something out of gold or platinum is a little different. Each material has somewhat different properties and offers different curves. There is a difference between jewellery that is designed by someone with no knowledge of the manufacturing processes and jewellery designed by an experienced jeweller. At the same time, both variants have their benefits and challenges.
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Special care is needed when working with precious stones. These also have unique visual or mechanical properties.
In jewellery making, it is common to first buy a stone and then design a piece of jewellery around it. But it can be done the other way around: A piece of jewellery can be designed entirely on paper before looking for a suitable stone. I like to use this option for standard stone cutting. But there are times when I don't want to limit myself, so a designed piece of jewellery might wait for some time before becoming a reality, and a stone might be found anywhere in the world.
In the past, I have worked with designs that have been processed differently in terms of accuracy of expression. The projects I found the most interesting were those in which the designer left room for imagination, and some details looked impossible to manufacture.
It is similar to when I create a design based off of a discussion with a customer. It is often a journey that develops during production.
I approach designing with the idea that I can make anything I can imagine. This way, I think I manage to avoid creating things that can be seen in most shop windows.
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“Butterfly” brooch and pendant
18K yellow gold, platinum, blue pearls, garnet
Design: Jaroslav Matuška
Jewellery work: Jaroslav Matuška at the Blue Pearl Gallery
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